That question is easier to answer now than ever before; but, still, there is not one answer for everyone since windsurfers come in all shapes, sizes, and abilities. Beginners should look for boards that are stable, lightweight, durable, low-cost, and capable of intermediate skills so you don't outgrow it so quickly.That's five characteristics. Manufacturers seem to be able to make boards with 3 or 4 of the five, but not all of them in one board. So, the board-choice process usually involves an intelligent decsion on where you're willing to make a trade-off.

Also, that fifth characteristic, capable of intermediate skills, breaks down into two general categories. Once you become an advanced beginner-to-intermediate level windsurfer, a given board will have natural capabilities that others will not. Some are given to easy manuvering and upwind ability while other shapes are built for early planning and speed in light winds. Your personality, goals in the sport, and general athletic ability will determine which is best for you.

Sound like too much to consider -- complicated? Actually, it's easier than ever to get the right board and be successful in this sport -- for everyone! Just start with good advice. I would want to discuss each of these these factors mentioned here with you personally.

Beyond these things, there are a couple other things you need to think about. 1) the usual conditions you can expect to sail in most of the time, and 2) your lifestyle -- how often will you be able to get out there on the water?

In most cases you will be able to get to the lake, or wherever, only when you have scheduled time off -- which is not necessarily when the wind is blowing at 15+mph. It may be 5 mph and puffy or it might be a steady breeze above 12 knots, yet, that's the day you're off and ready to go. You want the equipment to "work" as well as possible in whatever conditions you encounter. I want you both to have fun the first, as well as each and every time thereafter you go windsurfing. Also, the frequency with which you get on the water will greatly determine how fast you progress. If it can't be weekly, you need gear that is forgiving and doesn't require all your attention on balance each time you get out. Stability, which comes from volume and width, is the key to (1) drastically reduce the learning curve and (2), more importantly, have fun from the very beginning. Thankfully, about 3 years ago, the equipment manufacturers realized this.

The revolution in equipment that resurrected this sport (around the '97 - '98 season) was initially all about "light-air" sailing. One company began to make ultra-wide boards for greater stability, ease of learning, and ability to "plane" in much less wind. Their success was unbelievable. Soon, all manufacturers followed suit with very wide recreational boards; and then, the next season, increased width was incorporated into all classes of boards (except the extreme "wave" boards). Boards were made shorter and the volume (floatability) was built into the middle to the rear of the boards where the rider stands. Initially, I was worried about this whole revolution -- I feared the sport was going to become "wind platforming" and the whole sensation of surfing would be lost to beginners. But, now, several years have passed and shapers have learned how to enhance the wide designs to achieve higher performance boards that are quite stable, get on a plane easily, cruise comfortably, and maneuver turns in a similar fashion to a traditional short board. Now, that was a true revolution!

(Side Note #1: A Word on Width: As 4 or 5 years have gone by since the "revolt" began, some brands just think boards can't get too wide. They went...um, overboard. If 100cm is OK, why not 110?; why not 120? They are wrong-- boards can get too wide to perform "all-around" as they say. Too much width = excess drag, weight, and bulk that will hold you back in several categories. You can get all the stability any reasonable person needs without going there. I do list a couple of these "too-wide" boards here simply because they still meet certain needs.)

(Side Note #2: A word on Centerboards: In the first 2 or 3 years of this revolutionary change to shorter, wider boards, the board shapers eliminated the centerboards, or daggerboard, that had traditionally been in the very long boards beginners started on. Bad idea. Very bad idea. Upwind ability, the beginners biggest challange, was heavily sacrificed. Manufacturers tried to correct this by adding center fins, side fins, and junk like that with questionable results. However, one brand, F2, in 2002 realized this and their first "revolution" board -- The DISCOVERY -- had a standard retractable centerboard. Why not? Indeed. Now, in 2004, almost all the "first boards" have standard centerbords.)

Mistral "N-Trance" -- (MSRP: $1099; add EXPRESS rig, $359, or North DRIVE rig, $569) Redesigned in 2004 after extensive testing of all major entry level boards on the market, including classic "old school" beginner boards up to the latest, most extreme "wide body" designs. The result? A board of superior performance in planning and sub-planning conditions they feel is the new benchmark for first boards. They focused on a correct length-to-width ratio adn Even Volume Distribution to provide stability on both axis, upwind pointing, and improved high-wind control. Two models, both within my not-too-wide requirement: One is 280cm long and 80cm wide with 199 liters of volume. The other, the xL, is 290cm long, 90cm wide with 220 liters which will give heavyweights plenty of float, but in a narrower tail, manuverable performance package! Wow. Add a, comfy and protective rubber deck all over, High ResistanceSkin, many footsrap positions, and a traditional retractable daggerboard for "get me back to home" ability -- shoot, this may be it!

Trade-offs: Not the lowest price but litle else. bit heavy perhaps at 30lbs.

Mistral "Prodigy" --(MSRP: $ 1199) This is a truly unique design -- very different from anything else here. Bestselling board in America in ' 02 and near that in '03 due to a very successful, one-design national race class specifically for this board. Incorporates a very thick convex deck that gives beginners a greater sense of comfort and direction. Tremendous stability for beginners and occassional sailors, but also has interchangeable components you can add later that transform the board from a family-friendly beginner to an all-round performance board in light to medium winds and for racing. Good durability. A bit heavy at 33 lbs., but with more volume (255 liters) than any other board here, it is particularly suited for heavyweights. Add a complete sail rig (5.7 or 6.7) for $330 more.

Trade-offs: not lightweight; questionable high-end manuverability .

The Fanatic "E-Ray 200+" -- -- (MSRP: $1199) Very interesting combiantion of traits! A board with the high-tech materials and outline shape of smaller, advanced high-performance boards but upsized to 200 liters of volume. The result is a lighter weight (23 lbs.) more manuverable, yet stable, platform for the middle-to-heavyweight aggressive beginner. If your goal is to be up planing in the straps within a year, carving a jibe, and passing your more advanced buddies on the water without having to buy another board, this tool can take you there. Very early planning; high speed capable! Very durable construction.

Trade-offs: no centerboard; not cheapest.

Hifly's "Motion" and "Mambo" -- (MSRP: $749 or with a North Ultra 5.5 sail rig, $999.99) These are dagger-board equipped, poly extruded blow-molded boards that are the ultimate in durability and very affordable. HiFly is all about windsurfing with no worries, mate! Great choice for a family or beach house situation. These models have the same material as it's big brother, the Primo, on which I teach and more people in the world have taken their first windsurfing lesson than any other. Bombproof. Lifetime guarantee! "Motion" is longer and wider, more floaty (290m x 90cm x 219 liters) than the "Mambo" (275 X 80cm x 175 liters). Heavy out of the water at 41 and 35 lbs respectively, but in the water maneuvers nicely, accelerates smoothly onto a plane, and glides easily through the water. Extend the retractable daggerboard to gain stability and upwind performance. Mambo is not for heavyweights in the 190 lb.+ range.

Trade-offs: not lightweight; somewhat less top-end performance compared to some models.

Exocet's "Cruiser" -- (MSRP: $850) A very successful selling design primarily due to it's ease-of-transportation feature, a unique roller on the tail and a handle cut-out at the nose. Roll it around like luggage! You don't have to carry it. And, hey, that cheap price is nice! Another great family or lake/beach house board. It shares a lot of features with other boards here: overall EVA (rubber) deck, very durable. Large size is super wide at 100cm, volumizing at 205 liters, and has a retractable daggerboard. Medium size is 150 liters and 87cm wide -- suitable for lightweights, kids only. These boards are nearly too short at 270cm long. Stability from front-to-back can be an issue and also requires more precise sail positioning to track across and upwind.

Trade offs: a bit heavy in the water; short shape creates sail handling issues.

Starboard's "Start" -- (MSRP: $855) The board that makes windsurfing accessible to anyone of any ability, age, weight...or attitude. A ultra-wide, ultra-stable, rubber-decked learning platform that is hard to fall off of. Unsurpassed security and comfort for rapid learning. Great for the timid beginner or family goofing-around on the occassional trip to the beach or lake. At 110cm wide and 34 lbs, it is a handful on land but has a carrying handle. Updated in '04 with a retractable "dagger fin" system and a shallow-water fin supplied as standard equipment. It's not a board to take you to the intermediate level.

Trade-offs: limited capabilites; unweildy out of water.

There are a couple of really good values out there on quality "first" sails in complete rigs that include mast, boom, and extension.

The NorthSails DRIVE is a quality rig package (with excellent 30% carbon mast) at $560 or upper $200's to low $300's for sail alone. Nothing is in it's class quality-wise at that price. I've touched, felt, inspected, and tested it personally. North, the world's largest sail maker, is proud to have their name on this model. Simply the best economy sail I've ever seen. You can get eh sail alone and scrounge a used mast or boom, base and extension, or let me complete a reasonable package. All sizes, from 3.7 to 7.0 rig on a 430 mast! For the entry level, it's the bomb!

The Mistral EXPRESS is a new choice this year. $359 for 5.5 or 6.5 with an epoxy mast and all monofilm sail, boom, base/U-joint. All you need in the basic rig package.

You can't hardly beat Hifly's ULTRA rig price when you buy a HiFly Motion or Mambo board -- $280 additional dollars for a very nice, lightweight sail (made by the world leader, North Sails), epoxy mast, basic aluminum boom, AND the U-joint/ mast base. All you need. These "kit" sails are much, much better performance-wise than kit rigs from just a few years ago, but the main trade-off for the low price is the over-all weight and durability. They are heavier and less rugged than most of their high performance counterparts.

FIRST, A WARNING: If you get this fantastic used-board-with-sail-and-everything-deal from your brother-in-law that has an old, obsolete mast base and U-joint system, you will be very mad when you realize that, usually, if a piece of this system breaks, that's it -- the board is worthless.The sail, mast, and boom should work on another board, but if you can't find the obsolete replacement U-joint parts -- and I'm pretty good, but I can't work miracles --just toss out the board. To prevent this from happening, call me before you buy that used stuff. I'll go over it with you.

U-joints and mast bases are really simple, but there are several systems out there. Only two are really standard and soon it will be one, in my humble opinion. Let's go over it. The mast base extension sticks into the bottom of the mast and has the imbedded pulley wheels on it for downhauling the sail. They come in 3 or 4 lengths and each is adjustable in the amount of length they add to your mast. You only need one. This allows a given mast to adjust to fit a variety of sail sizes. Get a longish one. Why not? It only costs a few bucks more and then you have more flexibiity. Only get ones that accept a standard double push-pin cup (of the U-joint) and you'll always be carefree and happy.

The Universal Joint, or U-joint (also commonly referred to as the mast foot), assembly has a "cup" on top of it that inserts into the bottom of the mast base extension and should have two push pins that fit in the two holes at the bottom of the extension. The flexible piece of the U-joint comes in two shapes and materials, the black rubber hourglass or the orangish-looking urethane tendon. Either is fine. The bottom of the U-joint assembly usually has a threaded bolt and stainless or brass square washer to insert in the mast track of the board. Then, there is a mechanism to tighten down the whole assembly to the board, usually by twisting, which pulls the washer up tight inside the mast track. (Yep, can you believe that? -- it all comes down to that washer holding the sail to the board!) I sell and use myself Windsurfing Hawaii, Chinook, and Streamlined brands of extensions and U-joints. Expect to pay about $55 for the longest mast base extensions. The Windsurfing Hawaii STAR foot "twist and release" U-joint is simple, reliable, inexpensive ($44) and great for beginners (and you'll still be using it when you're an expert).

Up-haul line -- get the braided rope for easy grip -- $18. The basic bungee one is $11.

Boom bra pad -- $13. Attaches to the boom at the mast clamp to cushion the blow if the boom slams into the nose of the board.

Mast pad -- $18. Attaches at the base of the mast to cushion abrasion on the board from the lower part of the mast when the rig lays over in the water. (May not be needed on the newer sails if a pad is integral to the sail.)